It was crazy going from the white and solitude of a small village in the Khumbu to the sensory overload of Katmandu.

After the eight day course covering more advanced ice climbing and rock climbing, medical training, ascending and descending fixed ropes, multiple rescue techniques, and the mandatory climbing slang terminology – it was time for graduation and an evening of celebration.

The next day however, the party was over – it was time for the Basic course Final Exam.  The students had to rotate through stations, showing that they learned, knew and understood all that was taught in the last 9 days.  I must say it started off a bit rough: not tying into a harness properly, and incorrect belay technique, but overall out of the 66 Basic students, most people did reasonably well.  That night it was time for all the instructors to tally the scores and make the final decision on whether the students would receive a Certificate of Participation, a Certificate of Completion, or a Certificate of Completion with Honors.

The next morning, all the students and instructors gathered for the closing ceremony and graduation including distribution of the certificates, photo ops and just general celebration that a long week and a half was over…

My original waning hope of my lost luggage never arriving was starting to turn around – now 11 or 12 days in… with 3 of the 4 missing bags staggering into Katmandu… hopefully by the time Renny Jackson and his wife were ready for the trek in, my last bag (and my clothes would show).  Meanwhile, it was time to head over to the ice routes for the Puja, or Blessing. The Lama from the village performed the ceremony consisting of chanting, burning juniper, tossing rice, and pasting each other in the face with some kind of flour like substance – none of which I really understood.  The bottom line however is that it was basically blessing all of the students and instructors – as well, it was appropriate to have some of our gear included – so I took the opportunity to have my helmet, ice tools and crampons doused with good spirits – I mean why not? I can use all the help I can get while in the mountains.

After the morning Puja, it was then time to get the basic students harnessed up, tied in, and on the ice – as it turned out, that is a lot easier said than done…

With eight groups of eight basic students – each group having a lead and assistant Nepali instructor, as well as the six Western instructors floating between groups – there was a lot going on each day for the next week.  Groups learning to walk with crampons, ice climbing, medical classes, rock climbing (during a snowstorm), how to ascend fixed ropes, rappelling, etc…. and all while trying to ensure we didn’t kill anyone.  Days were long, exhausting and oftentimes frustrating, but overall extremely fulfilling.  Seeing someone that has climbed Everest several times not know how to tie-in, belay or rappel is kind of horrifying…. But seeing them fully ‘get it’ and light-up after demonstrating and then have them do it themselves is amazing.

Days were varied, but a few things were constant; walking and cold.  Down as low as -20C some evenings makes it tough to get out of the sleeping bag in the morning – the yak dung stove only goes for about an hour in the morning, and maybe two in the evening… The rest of the time it’s puffy jackets, hats, gloves, puffy pants – or walking to stay warm.  Well… walking… and food-  yup – one thing for sure – the hospitality of the folks in Phortse is off the charts.  Milk tea, black tea and great local breakfasts and dinners, and even catered lunches out of the climbs kept us fueled each day.  I thought the plan was to lose weight while in the Himalaya, but with the amount of food that was always around, that seemed doubtful.

Part way through the Basic Course, Renny and Catherine showed up, and yup – my last bag had finally arrived.  It had been the talk of the week, KP with no clothes, borrowing jackets and sleeping bags and wondering if my stuff would ever show.  I celebrated by having a shower (read – bucket of hot water) and getting out of the women’s underwear.  It was heaven.

As the students learned and honed their skills, in the back of everyone’s mind was exam day… This is no free ride.  These students would be tested on everything they learned on day nine of the Basic Course… the Nepali and Western Instructors were to be the examiners…Stay tuned for the results.

I’ve been in Nepal for over 10 days now, too bad I can’t say the same for my four fifty pound duffels.  I’m here volunteering at the Khumbu Climbing Center – part of the Alex Lowe Charitable Foundation (http://www.alexlowe.org/).  The goal of the Climbing School is to teach the locals who work or want to work in the mountains, how to work safely in the mountains.  This is the ninth year of the Khumbu Climbing Center and I’m truly honored to be included as one of the six Western Instruction Staff.

After a joyous 45 hour flight, where I picked up the funk, I arrived in Katmandu with three other Western Staff – Steve Mock, Mike Shaw and Jesse McGahey.  Unfortunately my bags didn’t make it.  I spent the next three days laid up in bed trying to recover and hoping my bags would show.  For some reason one bag showed – the one with my climbing gear… so that was good.  The guys had to head into the Khumbu while I waited one more day – no luck.  Finally it was time to go, but I needed to make a quick pit stop to the tourist district to buy some clothes.  Unfortunately they had limited selection, so I’m sporting some sweet women’s long underwear as I type this.

Pete Athans (another Western Instructor and all around bad ass) arrived so we headed into the Khumbu together.  With over 30 trips to Nepal (including seven Everest summits) under his belt, and being fluent in Nepali – I couldn’t have asked for a better tour guide – especially for a non world-traveler like myself.

A heart-in your-throat flight into Lukla, and three days of walking through Namche took us to the village of Phortse and the home of the Khumbu Climbing Center.  I couldn’t have felt much more lame, carrying my 15lb pack with camera gear as we passed porters carrying triple loads (91kg) – unbelievable.  To say the walk was spectacular would be quite the understatement.  I almost biffed it countless times as I was constantly staring up at Everest, Lhoste, Ama Dablam and Tawoche – unreal.

Two days into the hike we got word that another bag showed up in Katmandu – weird – but not my clothes – it was a duffel of donated gear for the school – still a small victory.  The final Western Instructor, Renny Jackson, would be arriving in a few days so he would be able to bring the retrieved gear with him…

We started off with a day long instructors seminar – talking about consistent technique and proper use of gear.  Yesterday we sorted through all of the School’s donated gear (some which was a bit worse for wear) and began registering the 66 students as they arrived for the 10 day Basic Class – the curriculum including knots, belaying, rock climbing, ice climbing ascending fixed ropes, rescue techniques, map and compass work, geology, wilderness first aid and English classes.  A  jam packed schedule for sure.

Word is a third duffel arrived today – once again – not my clothes – more gear for the school – but at least we’d be able to get it to Renny before he makes the trek…

This morning was the opening ceremony including the welcoming and blessings, and then it was straight to work – knots and basic belaying.  Soon we’ll hit the rock and ice.  Stay tuned for a second installment – maybe by then my final bag will be found and I’ll be in some clean clothes – that would be nice.

Out for now from the chilly Himalayas

KP

If the bags don’t show up in the next few hours, i’m headed into town to buy some clothes – and headed into the Khumbu tomorrow regardless.  Most of the other guys headed in yesterday already.  We’ll see what happens.