No problems in customs, thank goodness, a short delay in SFO, and finally back to SLC where Ellen and Rumple were there to pick me up.

What an adventure.  I’m exhausted from my non-vacation, and need to go back to work to relax.

It was back to total mayem: pollution, people, noise, etc.  We had about a day in KTM until I headed back to the states – so it was time to clean up, pack up, get some food, and head out.

It was crazy going from the white and solitude of a small village in the Khumbu to the sensory overload of Katmandu.

After the eight day course covering more advanced ice climbing and rock climbing, medical training, ascending and descending fixed ropes, multiple rescue techniques, and the mandatory climbing slang terminology – it was time for graduation and an evening of celebration.

The next day however, the party was over – it was time for the Basic course Final Exam.  The students had to rotate through stations, showing that they learned, knew and understood all that was taught in the last 9 days.  I must say it started off a bit rough: not tying into a harness properly, and incorrect belay technique, but overall out of the 66 Basic students, most people did reasonably well.  That night it was time for all the instructors to tally the scores and make the final decision on whether the students would receive a Certificate of Participation, a Certificate of Completion, or a Certificate of Completion with Honors.

The next morning, all the students and instructors gathered for the closing ceremony and graduation including distribution of the certificates, photo ops and just general celebration that a long week and a half was over…

My original waning hope of my lost luggage never arriving was starting to turn around – now 11 or 12 days in… with 3 of the 4 missing bags staggering into Katmandu… hopefully by the time Renny Jackson and his wife were ready for the trek in, my last bag (and my clothes would show).  Meanwhile, it was time to head over to the ice routes for the Puja, or Blessing. The Lama from the village performed the ceremony consisting of chanting, burning juniper, tossing rice, and pasting each other in the face with some kind of flour like substance – none of which I really understood.  The bottom line however is that it was basically blessing all of the students and instructors – as well, it was appropriate to have some of our gear included – so I took the opportunity to have my helmet, ice tools and crampons doused with good spirits – I mean why not? I can use all the help I can get while in the mountains.

After the morning Puja, it was then time to get the basic students harnessed up, tied in, and on the ice – as it turned out, that is a lot easier said than done…

With eight groups of eight basic students – each group having a lead and assistant Nepali instructor, as well as the six Western instructors floating between groups – there was a lot going on each day for the next week.  Groups learning to walk with crampons, ice climbing, medical classes, rock climbing (during a snowstorm), how to ascend fixed ropes, rappelling, etc…. and all while trying to ensure we didn’t kill anyone.  Days were long, exhausting and oftentimes frustrating, but overall extremely fulfilling.  Seeing someone that has climbed Everest several times not know how to tie-in, belay or rappel is kind of horrifying…. But seeing them fully ‘get it’ and light-up after demonstrating and then have them do it themselves is amazing.

Days were varied, but a few things were constant; walking and cold.  Down as low as -20C some evenings makes it tough to get out of the sleeping bag in the morning – the yak dung stove only goes for about an hour in the morning, and maybe two in the evening… The rest of the time it’s puffy jackets, hats, gloves, puffy pants – or walking to stay warm.  Well… walking… and food-  yup – one thing for sure – the hospitality of the folks in Phortse is off the charts.  Milk tea, black tea and great local breakfasts and dinners, and even catered lunches out of the climbs kept us fueled each day.  I thought the plan was to lose weight while in the Himalaya, but with the amount of food that was always around, that seemed doubtful.

Part way through the Basic Course, Renny and Catherine showed up, and yup – my last bag had finally arrived.  It had been the talk of the week, KP with no clothes, borrowing jackets and sleeping bags and wondering if my stuff would ever show.  I celebrated by having a shower (read – bucket of hot water) and getting out of the women’s underwear.  It was heaven.

As the students learned and honed their skills, in the back of everyone’s mind was exam day… This is no free ride.  These students would be tested on everything they learned on day nine of the Basic Course… the Nepali and Western Instructors were to be the examiners…Stay tuned for the results.